5 Traditional Embroideries of Pakistan That Make a Serious Style Statement
Pakistan’s intricate hand-embroidered crafts are gaining recognition globally. Designers are fusing traditional techniques with modern silhouettes to create a seamless fusion that resonates with diverse audiences. Embroidery adds a touch of elegance to all types of clothing and is a perfect representation of the country’s culture. This article will explore five different embroidery styles of Pakistan that are bound to make a statement.
1. Phulkari
Phulkari embroidery traces its roots to Punjab.
This form of embroidery is a traditional art that was passed down to women
through oral tradition. The work is done on hand spun khaddar, a plain weave
cotton cloth. Women from the villages used to grow the cotton, spin it into
yarn using a charkha and dye it using a jullaha. The women would then embroider
the khaddar with designs that were inspired by nature and everyday life. The
intricate patterns are created by counted threads and are symmetrical in nature.
The traditional motifs include stylised bitter gourds, mustard flowers, golden
yellow marigolds and jasmine buds as well as the Tree of Life.
The art has been taken a backseat since the division of India and Pakistan but it is still being practiced in certain pockets. Women in Punjab have come forward to keep this art alive and are working towards preserving it in its pure form.
Traditionally the embroidery was done for
ceremonial purposes like weddings, births and festivals. It was also a way for
the women to express their emotions and desires through the embroidery. The
embroidery was a form of art and the embroiderers were praised for their
creative abilities and artistic talent. The embroidered pieces also carried a
lot of symbolism. The floral motifs symbolized beauty and success, the trees
represented strength and growth while different fruits showed prosperity.
There are various types of Phulkari embroidery
including Vari da Bagh, Wari da Bagh and Ghunghat Bagh. Each type of embroidery
has a specific meaning and value attached to it. Varida Bagh has a zig-zag
pattern on the base while Wari Da bagh is embroidered with a circle motif. The
ghunghat bagh has large triangles and is decorated with floral motifs. The
Darshan Dwar phulkari is made on a white background and it is gifted to temples
as an offering to thank God for fulfilling a wish.
2. Swat Embroidery
Embroidery is among Pakistan’s most distinctive
folk arts. Its motifs, color and composition signify group identity and
occupation and, often, social status. Although Pakistan’s neighbouring
countries also have their own distinct embroidery cultures, the country has
developed its own style that is distinguished by stitching techniques, designs
and motifs.
The region of Swat, a rambling desert that lies
in the north-west of Pakistan is home to some of the best examples of Swati
embroidery. The motifs are mostly floral and geometric, and they are usually
drawn on cotton or silk fabric in running stitch. The Swat phulkari may be
embroidered from the front, whereas the Hazara applique work is embroidered
from the back of the cloth.
These designs are embroidered on a variety of
textiles, including kurtis (shirts), bed sheets, pillow cases, table cloths,
and saris and maxis (long frocks). They are also used on hats, caps and
handkerchiefs. Artisans also make embroidered home décor items such as wall
hangings and trays.
Embroidery has an important role to play in Pakistan’s fashion industry. It is used to create a wide range of dresses and accessories, and it has an impact on societal trends and styles. It is also used to mark significant events such as weddings and religious festivals. The country is making efforts to preserve this traditional art form, with many workshops and training programs being held to teach a new generation of embroiderers.
This cosy wool shawl is crafted by artisans from
Salampur Swat, a community that has mastered the delicate craft of Pakistani
embroidery. The result is a piece that transcends occasion, offering warmth and
elegance. Hand wash gently with cold water and mild detergent to maintain the
integrity of the embroidered design.
3. Zari Embroidery
Zari embroidery is known for adding a touch of
glamour to any garment it adorns. It involves weaving metallic threads –
usually gold or silver – into fabric to produce beautiful patterns. This
intricate technique has been used since 1700-1100 BC but became famous during
the mughal era under the patronage of Emperor Akbar.
This is a skill that requires patience and
precision. Zardozi craftsmen sit cross-legged around an Adda (traditional
wooden frame) and use special tools to initiate the process of embroidery. The
most popular ones include curved hooks, needles, salmaa (pure gold fibre),
Sitara as, sequins and dabkaa (thread). They begin by drawing their design on
the fabric using chalk or pencil. Then they put the fabric on the frame and
start embroidering.
Traditionally, zari work was done with gold threads but now artisans use coiled metal wire or plastic core with golden outside that is more pocket friendly and lighter to wear. It is embroidered on cotton, silk and velvet fabrics to produce floral, paisley, kutch work, shishobhart motifs, as well as geometrical and figurative designs.
The artisan who makes these embroideries is known
as a khadiar, and women play a major role in this handicraft. Many of these
artisan families have adopted it as their full-time profession and this is one
craft that has become more than just a decorative element.
Typically, women work on these embroideries as
their hobby and they also make it as part of their home décor. Women have a
great passion for this craft and their embroidery works reflect it. These works
are a symbol of Pakistan’s rich history and culture. They also represent a form
of art that is unique to the region.
4. Mirror Work
Known for its intricate patterns, mirror work
embroidery is an important part of Pakistan’s heritage and culture. It is a
traditional hand-embroidery style that has evolved over time with the
incorporation of various cultural influences from around the world. It is
popularly used for making dresses and other textile products such as
embroidered bags, pillows, cushions, bedspreads, shawls and other clothing
accessories.
Women play a major role in the production of
mirror work embroideries. They learn the skill and create designs after taking
out some time from their regular household chores. They make a living out of
this craft and also help their family members earn a steady income. Moreover,
it helps in empowering them and gives them a sense of pride and confidence in
their skills.
A typical mirror work pattern is a circle or oval shape with multiple dots surrounding it. These dots reflect light beautifully and enhance the beauty of the piece. It’s also used in religious attire as the Jain religion firmly believes that wearing these pieces wards off the evil eye and mischievous spirits.
This type of embroidery is usually a combination
of different stitching techniques like chain stitch, satin stitch and double
cross stitch. The motifs are usually abstract and use a lot of bright colours
to bring out the beauty. The designs are usually based on nature and religion.
A great way to add mirror work to your daily
wardrobe is by adding a few timeless jhumkas, phone cases or laptop covers with
this beautiful art. You can even go all out and pick up a mirror work dress
from one of the many boutiques or online stores that sell these
hand-embroidered beauties. Start with small sessions of about five minutes a
day and gradually increase the duration to establish an empowering
self-relationship with your reflection.
5. Balochi Embroidery
Embroidery has been an ancient art form for
centuries. It was not only a means of embellishing textile, it also conveyed
cultural messages and sentiments. Even today, it serves as a mode of nonverbal
communication that can distinguish identities and social status. Pakistan is a
treasure trove of traditional embroidery designs that are considered some of
the finest in the world.
In the present era, it has become a popular trend
to decorate dresses with hand embroidery work. This craft has a significant
role in the fashion industry and has gained massive recognition worldwide. In
fact, some of the world’s top designers have incorporated Balochi embroidery in
their collection.
Balochi embroidery (Balochi:
It is a form of needlework that uses different
types of threads to create a wide range of designs. It reflects the culture of
the local people, with geometric shapes, motifs and floral motifs that are
embroidered on various materials. These motifs are inspired by their natural
surroundings, religion, beliefs, wishes and aspirations.
This type of embroidery is also a source of income for the women in the area as it can be sold to buyers from around the country. The artisans of Kuddan receive orders from other villages and also from the cities of Karachi, Quetta, Turbat and Gwadar. The women also sell their embroideries to other shops and markets in the area.
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